Recently, while in Edinburgh, Scotland, I had the chance to visit The Balmoral, a Rocco Forte hotel. This five star property sits atop Waverley Station, Edinburgh’s main train station. It’s well known for its clock tower, which is visible from almost anywhere in Edinburgh, and its kilted doormen who also meet guests trainside. The Balmoral isn’t to be confused with Balmoral Castle, in the Scottish Highlands, the Royal Family’s Scottish home, although the hotel is certainly fit for a queen, or possibly a Half-Blood Prince. Read on for a glimpse into this Virtuoso luxury hotel in the heart of Edinburgh.
The Balmoral, a Rocco Forte Hotel
The building, which takes up an entire city block, was built in 1902 at the far end of Princes Street. It’s an Edinburgh landmark, and has always been a hotel. Of course, its original purpose was a traveller’s hotel, and its location atop the station was perfect for those arriving in Scotland by train.
Even then, the porters would escort guests from the train to the hotel by private lift. And while today the hallways are great for travellers with large suitcases, back then they were perfect for the women in the large hoop skirt fashion of the day! After the railways nationalised, the hotel changed hands, and since then has undergone several owners. Today it is owned by the Rocco Forte Hotels group (since 1997).
The Balmoral is undergoing extensive, slow, renovations and while some rooms are new, others retain old decor. I had the chance to visit three different room types, including one very special one, the spa, and the various restaurants on property.
There are several restaurants at The Balmoral. Hadrian’s Brasserie and Balmoral Bar, the ground floor eateries, are undergoing renovations and will reopen in spring 2018. Number One, the Michelin starred restaurant, is open as is Palm Court. Breakfast is served in the gallery. And fancy a scotch? As this is Edinburgh, there is an entire bar devoted to the water of life.
The Balmoral spa, fitness centre, and pool are open to guests. The fitness centre is expansive and well equipped, as is the pool. Whether its a quiet lap or a bit of water aerobics you’re after, you can do it under the calming blue lights of the pool.
Rooms at The Balmoral
The first suite we visited was a castle view junior suite. The views are simply incredible. From the large windows, I could see across the top of Waverley to Edinburgh Castle, the Walter Scott Monument, and the bustle of Princes Street. Every room at The Balmoral comes with its own set of binoculars for guests to use, as well as a gorgeous hand drawn map of the city. Various magazines – the same in each room – are placed on the coffee tables for perusal over tea or wine.
The second room was a deluxe castle view, a smaller room with another spectacular view from the windows. Bathrooms at The Balmoral are all the same, although of differing sizes and shapes. The white and grey marble comes from Italy, a nod to Sir Rocco Forte’s heritage. While much of the design is Scottish, with Scottish products, there are a few Italian elements.
The rooms that have been renovated are designed with muted Scottish colours. The grey wallpaper and the paisley cashmere throws are elegant and chic. Pops of colour come in the form of throw pillows with Scottish animals embroidered. These are mainly blues, greens, and purples, although there is one room that is vastly different.
The Purple Door at the End of the Hallway
As we exited the elevator on to the 5th floor, I turned to the right – away from the castle side – and spotted a vibrant purple door. As we got closer, I could see that the door knocker, far from being the standard hotel style, was a snowy owl. A bright gold plaque on the door indicated this was the J.K. Rowling Suite.
I was well aware that the suite existed, but I couldn’t believe that it was free for me to view! As a side backstory, when Rowling was working on Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows (book seven), she needed a quiet space to write in. Avid HP fans might know that she knew how the series would end when she began the first book. That being said, she still had to write it!
The JK Rowling Suite
This room is perfect for families with children. It’s magical, in a way, from the minute the door opens and you spot the grey wallpaper covered with stars. The foyer opens into a large sitting room with corner windows that look out over Leith and Calton Hill – no castle views here. I’m reliably informed that it was because Rowling wanted to see people while she worked – real people. Bookshelves line the walls, with all sorts of books, from several series of Harry Potter to frayed books, kids series, and more.
The colours in this suite are far from the gemstone tones of the rest of the hotel. They’re red, orange, and yellow. The bathrooms are the same Italian marble as the others, though, and the toiletries remain the same. The whole room is delightfully airy, with large windows on all corners. Rowling signed a decorative Roman bust in the immediate aftermath of finishing as well as a signed note, which is framed and hung on the wall. Personally, I love the room, and I know from listening to the staff at The Balmoral that they love it too.
Families in Edinburgh
In general, Edinburgh and Scotland make for great family destinations. It is easy to get to the UK, no matter whether you fly through London or direct into Edinburgh. With a plethora of exciting historical attractions, outdoor activities, and interactive museums, Edinburgh is an excellent family vacation spot. The Balmoral has plenty of connecting room options, sweet treats for kids, and a great location for visiting the Scottish capital. I suggest three days here (including arrival day) before venturing further into the Scottish hinterland.
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