During my recent visit to Ireland, I took the opportunity to visit the four Virtuoso hotels in Dublin City, as well as one that lies about an hour west of Dublin in the heart of Ireland. Dublin, Ireland is a vibrant artistic city with plenty to offer its visitors. US travellers come in droves, often to trace their family history, but there is so much more to this cosmopolitan city than meets the eye. Cobblestone alleys meet flagstone paths, traditional Irish music harmonises with iconic Irish rock, and the darkest beer mixes with the clear gin made from Irish spring water. Once a tiny crossroads, Dublin now contends with places like London, Paris, New York, and Berlin as a bold, eclectic city with incredible people, fabulous food and drink, and exclusive five star hotels with the ever-present Irish hospitality.
There are a lot of hotels in Dublin, so how do you choose the right one for you? It comes down to location, style, and vibe, in my opinion. In my opinion, each hotel is different and offers something unique to Virtuoso travellers – no matter the reason you’re in Dublin. Read on for my take on these gorgeous hotels in Dublin and beyond.
Hotels in Dublin
All four Virtuoso hotels in Dublin are within a ten minute walk of each other in the centre of the city. Two lie on or adjacent to St. Stephens Green while the other two are a block or two off of it, in the heart of the shopping district. Dublin is a very walkable city, meaning that no matter where you are, even all the way over at the Guinness storehouse or Jameson distillery, you’re within a twenty minute walk of the hotels.
The Shelbourne, a Renaissance Hotel
The Shelbourne, old of Dublin’s oldest hotels, is located at the corner of St Stephens Green. It takes up much of the end of the block and is quite the labyrinth inside. The entry gives way to a grand foyer with a short staircase. Two lounges flank the entry while the reception lobby is tucked away to the right, behind a column.
The Shelbourne is a Marriott Renaissance luxury brand hotel, a Virtuoso preferred supplier. I met Dana, one of the sales team, for tea before talking a tour of the property.
Tea at The Shelbourne
I was told by multiple hoteliers that tea in Ireland has really kicked up a notch. It’s no longer stuffy and boring; tea is fun, tea is luxurious, tea is vibrant and bright and young. I did some research on this topic, and it seems it might stem from the 2010 release of Alice in Wonderland. Although that might be a stretch, it’s true that over the last decade high tea has become something of a fashionable event.
I’ve always loved high tea. There’s truly something about a cup of hot tea on a cool dreich day. We did, however, kick off with a glass of champagne, toasting my safe arrival into Dublin. As I have already written about food in Dublin, you can click over to that post to read more about the tea at The Shelbourne.
Exploring the Shelbourne
After we dined, Dana took me on an extensive tour of the property. The Shelbourne is the oldest hotel in Dublin and has over 200 years of history. Every single sitting US president has stayed here (sans the current one), as well as other heads of state and celebrities. It has an enviable location at the top of St Stephens Green and takes up a full city block. There are numerous bars and restaurants inside, some just for guests, and two brand new spaces that I did not want to leave! These two are the library bar and adjacent terrace. They are located at the top of the stairs above reception, but only guests are permitted. Number 27, one of the best in Dublin, sits just to the left of the entrance.
Tea is served in the opposite room to the bar, the Lord Mayor’s Lounge. It is a light and airy space with large windows that open on to the road and the park across it. The Saddle Room, at the rear of the reception level, wraps around toward Number 27 and has several private dining spaces. It also features an oyster bar. And, finally, the Horseshoe Bar is tucked behind a door in a low alcove. Had Dana not made sure it was unlocked for us, I would never have seen it. The dark red space is one of Dublin’s most unique, most revered bars. It features original memorabilia from all sorts of people
Rooms at The Shelbourne
There are 265 rooms and suites at The Shelbourne. They’re classically styled, with sumptuous modern furnishings and antique decor. Jewel tones accent; I think my favourite are the bright benches at the foot of some beds. The artwork reflects Dublin, much of it is paintings of the city of Irish countryside.
The Shelbourne has a variety of room categories. The refurbished Heritage wing has a selection of rooms and suites named for famous past guests, including the Princess Grace Suite. All rooms feature plush bathrobes and towels, Elemis toiletries, a laptop safe, and crisp linens atop the luxurious beds.
Spa Services and Amenities at The Shelbourne
The Shelbourne’s spa is quite possibly one of the more unique spas I have ever been in, and the fitness centre is definitely the most unique! Because the building is an exquisite Georgian mansion, the ceilings are tall and the crown moulding is on point. A hair and salon take up a small portion of the spa, which is open to the public as well. The Shelbourne does have plans for a slight renovation and expansion here – stay tuned. Thanks to the Georgian architecture, the fitness centre is a fantastic space with incredible decor, and a former fireplace. The spa’s relaxation room looks out over the park. You can feel like you are in the heart of the city without hearing a thing.
I was also pleasantly surprised by the pool! It is a large pool with a skylight at the rear of the building. The fitness centre and spa are open to Dublin residents as part of a health club.
Virtuoso amenities here include an upgrade on arrival, subject to availability, complimentary wifi, complimentary daily breakfast for two, served in the restaurant, and a complimentary lunch or dinner once during the stay.
Stay at The Shelbourne if… you’re in town for leisure, enjoy being slightly outside of the centre, or love tradition and elegance alongside modern Dublin fashion and food. As The Shelbourne is a Marriott hotel, Marriott Rewards members can earn or redeem points.
The Westin Dublin
The Westin Dublin is located along Westmoreland Street, across from Trinity College at College Green. Its decor and style are much more modern than The Shelbourne. The building is the former headquarters of the Allied Irish Bank, though, so while the interiors are contemporary, the ceilings and some other interior features retain their stunning Georgian elements. In particular, the function room is spectacular.
I met both Steve and Deirdre, although Steve is the one who guided me through the hotel and joined me for a tea in the atrium afterwards.
Rooms at The Westin
There are a variety of room categories at The Westin Dublin, but the best ones are either the ones that look out over Westmoreland Street or the ones that overlook Trinity College. As already noted, all of the 172 rooms are modern, with touches of the classical Georgian look that defines Dublin. All rooms feature the signature Westin Heavenly bedding and towels as well as complimentary waters and a pod coffee machine.
There are several signature suites that highlight the literary aspect of Dublin. My personal favourite was the Library suite, that takes up two levels and has the feel of an old college library… fitting, I suppose, that Trinity’s library is just across the road. Book your stay in one of the Writers Suites with gorgeous views over the rooftops of Trinity or take over the Presidential College Suite, which features a large living and dining space as well as a spacious bedroom and bathroom.
Insider tip: Take an exclusive tour of the Book of Kells during your stay in Dublin.
I particularly liked the bathrooms at The Westin Dublin. They are large, very well lit, and with a wide array of amenities. The towels and robes are all Westin Heavenly.
Restaurants and Amenities at The Westin
The Westin has three restaurants. The first is their steakhouse, Moreland’s Grill, which is also where breakfast is served in the mornings. Virtuoso clients, of course, get complimentary breakfast for two. On the lower level, treated as a speakeasy and delightfully dark, is the Mint Bar. And, finally, in the atrium, light and airy as cream itself, is the Atrium Lounge and tearoom. The atrium is open all day and serves morning coffee, afternoon tea, and quirky late night cocktails. There were often businesspeople working here during the day, computers and papers spread out across the tables.
The Westin Dublin does not have a spa, however the hotel has spa professionals onsite to provide in-room massage therapy. There are two options; the concierge can book them for you or you can book yourself online. Virtuoso amenities at the Westin Dublin include daily complimentary breakfast for two at Moreland’s Grill, afternoon tea for two once during the stay, an upgrade on arrival based on availability, complimentary wifi, and early check-in/late checkout.
Stay at The Westin Dublin if… you’re in town on business and need a central location, have Starwood Preferred Guest points, or love modern Dublin against a backdrop of ancient college.
The Merrion
The Merrion lies on Merrion Square, north of St Stephens Green, in a row of four converted Georgian town homes. It is a classically beautiful hotel and – along with The Shelbourne – is often considered one of the best hotels in Dublin. It’s also a favourite local spot. During my visit there were plenty of locals arriving for weddings and first communion lunches.
The Merrion is in the process of undergoing some soft renovations. Most of the guest rooms retain their period furnishings and decor, as does the lobby and the bars, while the Garden Room is considerably brighter. It’s set on the far side of the terrace, in a newer wing of the hotel, and with the wide doors that can be opened in nice weather, it truly feels as though its part of the garden.
Rooms at The Merrion
There are 142 rooms and suites at The Merrion, spread over the main house and the contemporary Garden Wing. All of the rooms are light and airy, and the colour palette is inspired by Paul Henry’s Irish landscape paintings which hang in the hotel.
Because of the nature of restoration, the original townhouse rooms are much more traditional in style. However, the rooms and suites in the Garden Wing feature contemporary takes on the same style. The juxtaposition between old and new is evident but not intense. Rooms in the Garden Wing overlook the city or private gardens. The town home rooms and suites have either Government Building views or private garden views.
All of the rooms I viewed are spacious, with large luxurious beds, seating areas or an armchair, desks, and large bathrooms with modern appliances and Italian Carrera marble. Every room features wifi, television and stereo system, mini bar, laptop safe, plush towels and bathrobes, and Asprey amenities.
Amenities at The Merrion
Guests can choose from four restaurants and bars: Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud (Ireland’s only two-Michelin-star restaurant), The Garden Room, The Cellar Bar, and the Drawing Rooms. Afternoon tea is held in the Drawing Rooms every afternoon. Particularly interesting is how the teacakes are inspired by hotel artwork. Each plate comes with a drawing of the artwork inspiration. I also loved the fireplaces in the Drawing Rooms, which are ideal in the winter OR on a dreary day in Dublin! The Cellar Bar features a gastro-pub menu which is available all day.
Insider tip: For a truly one of a kind dining experience, reserve a table at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and enjoy a modern take on French cuisine with an Irish twist.
Virtuoso amenities include an upgrade on arrival subject to availability, daily complimentary breakfast for two, early check-in/late check-out, complimentary appetisers and cocktails OR lunch or dinner, depending on the room category booked, and complimentary wifi.
Stay at The Merrion if… you want to feel completely ensconced in Georgian Dublin, enjoy timeless elegance, or prefer intimate boutique hotels.
The Westbury
The Westbury is the last of the four hotels in Dublin that are Virtuoso. It is located in yet another prime location, just off Grafton Street about halfway between The Westin and St Stephens Green. Their little nook, as they call it, is flanked by the Grafton Street flower sellers – a bright display even on a cloudy day. At the time of my visit (May 2018), there was construction going on in the nook – repaving the road – but valet parking and taxis were still able to access the front door.
The reception is located upstairs on the large, open main level. To the left, the gallery space looks out over Grafton Street. This is where guests can take afternoon tea. On that busy Saturday, there were plenty of people enjoying tea, champagne, and cocktails. The Gallery is definitely a place to see and be seen! To the right of reception are meeting and event spaces; The Westbury is a popular wedding destination.
Insider tip: Want to have a destination wedding? A travel advisor can handle every single detail in coordination with a wedding planner!
Rooms at The Westbury
The Westbury has 205 rooms and suites, yet it doesn’t feel large. Though, of the hotels in Dublin, it is on the larger end. My hostess, the assistant guest relations manager Eimear, was able to show me several different categories. The rooms are luxurious and modern without detracting from the historic architecture and storied history of the hotel. The style is classic modern, with clean lines, plump pillows, and bright accent colours. I especially like the four-poster beds featured in some of the suites!
Guests can choose from a variety of categories, from classic queen or king rooms to spacious suites with living and dining spaces. All of the rooms I saw felt spacious, even the lower category rooms. They all feature Aromatherapy Associates toiletries, thick towels and bathrobes, wifi, marble bathrooms with heated floors, and more.
Dining at The Westbury
The Westbury offers several great dining options. First, there’s the Gallery and The Sidecar bar, a fun take on the 1930s cocktail bar. I think Jay Gatsby would feel right at home here. Then there are two restaurants, Wilde and Balfes.
Wilde, a recently renovated fine dining establishment infuses traditional food with modern attention to detail. The head chef is Indian, so expect some twists on classic Irish food. Wilde has large, floor to ceiling windows, bringing the Dublin exterior in. There is also a narrow room filled with greenery and light, which really gives off a garden feel.
Balfes is located on the ground floor. It’s sidewalk terrace, wicker chairs, and tiny tables kind of reminded me of Paris. The menu here is casual – brunch, lunch, and cocktails. It gets crowded but guests can make reservations.
Ballyfin Demesne
Ballyfin Demesne is a gorgeous 20-room estate in the heart of County Laois. It is about an hour and twenty minutes from Dublin city centre. The approach is spectacular, through a set of gates down a one way drive to the front of the imposing greystone building. The stout structure with its towering Greek colonnade doesn’t give away the ornate interior in any way, yet somehow it conveys the glamour you’ll find. Staff await your car and the check in process takes place in a homey room just off the foyer, which really isn’t too grand as its worn, mosaicked, stone floor gives away the centuries of familiar use.
One of the butlers showed me to the ladies room then led me to the library. Ballyfin’s library is a vast room literally lined with books, stacks of books in places where there was no more room to put them, and overstuffed chairs and sofas with plump pillows. Someone must re-plump them the minute one leaves them… to me, this is heaven.
As Damien, the GM, had one quick meeting, I savored a coffee and then went out to pick up a golf cart. Ballyfin generously has three golf carts for guest use, and there’s plenty of space to explore. The estate is 614 acres, complete with a picnic house, walled gardens, a shooting range, lake (with boats), tiny chapel, round tower, and a grotto. I tooled around the lake, went out to the chapel, and circled the road to the tower before heading back to meet Damien for a tour of the house and lunch.
A tour of Ballyfin
We began in the house, viewing various rooms in both the original house and the stables. Each room has a different look, although all are styled in the same era. Think four poster canopy beds, gilded mirrors, and plush chaise lounges or arm chairs.
Guests also have access to the spa and pool, which are located in the stables. Damien also showed me the oldest stairs, once used by the staff, and now part of the hotel which guests can use to visit the pub. The pub houses Ballyfin’s collection of modern art and is located in the old kitchens and butler pantries, etc.
Damien highlighted the differences between these stairs and the formal house stairs (that classic Upstairs Downstairs difference): the servant stairs were bland, the household stairs were of high quality wood, stain, and design.
There are three restaurants in the property: a conservatory where lunch is served, a formal dining room, and a casual bar downstairs. Virtuoso clients receive complimentary breakfast daily.
We dined in the conservatory for lunch. I asked Damien to select a few dishes, so we began with a salmon and potato salad, then shared the risotto and the goujons… a fancy way of saying fish and chips! I also had a glass of the rose, from Provence.
Exploring the property
After lunch, Damien and I headed out onto the property. We drove first to the gardens, where we picked strawberries from the plants, then stopped at the latest addition, a stand-alone cottage for two. This project, located between the house and gardens, is a two-storey house with living and dining spaces, a kitchen, and a full upstairs with one bedroom and large, modern bath.
Finally, we headed through the garens toward the tower and the shooting range. The late 19th century tower has 97 steps. It was designed to look like a ruin despite its fairly recent construction. The view from the top extends across the countryside. For guests without mobility issues, this is a great, short, activity.
Trails crisscross much of the property and it’s relatively easy to drive them. We spent about an hour driving around the property before returning to the house for a coffee.
Why go to Ballyfin, and how to get there
I suggest going to to Ballyfin for a few days following a tour of the country. At only an hour by car from Dublin airport, it’s a great place to end your trip. Virtuoso clients receive complimentary breakfast, an upgrade on arrival subject to availability, early check-in/late checkout, $100USD in spa credits, and complimentary wifi.
Personally, and professionally, I recommend that you have a driver in Ireland. For guests not familiar with driving on the other side of the road it is far easier to let someone else do the driving! This can be as little as a hired car to get you from your Dublin hotel to Ballyfin, or as much as a driver escorting you around the country. For guests comfortable and familiar with driving on the left, there is guest parking at Ballyfin.
Other Virtuoso hotels in Ireland
I sadly did not have enough time to visit all of the Virtuoso hotels in Ireland. In addition to these five hotels in Dublin, there are 13 other Virtuoso properties across Ireland. Some are names probably familiar. Adare Manor recently reopened after an extensive renovation. The K Club is popular with guests as a “near Dublin” resort. Ashford Castle, Aghadoe Heights, Culloden Estate (Belfast, NI), and Sheen Falls Lodge round out the big names. There are also stunning Virtuoso hotels in Kilkenny, Killarney, County Kerry, County Clare, and County Mayo.
What are your favourite hotels in Dublin? Is Ireland on your bucket list? Contact me to arrange a consultation about your trip! And don’t forget to pin this >>> for future reference!
